Mark "top right side" "top left side" "bottom right side" and "bottom left side" Mark "top right" "top left" "bottom right" and "bottom left" This part would have been easier with a jointer and a thickness planer, but it was no big deal. I made the trim with ordinary 2×4's and a lot of ripping and some tidy-up with an electric hand planer. From the 70 mm (2 3/4") offcuts, cut another two pieces 219 mm (8 5/8") long, and mark "valance left" and "valance right". Rip another strip 70 mm (2 3/4") wide, and cut to 1549 mm (61") long, and mark "valance front". I also did some subtle decorative routing on the edges of these 12 boards, and it is easier to do that *before* you cut them to length. 12 of these are adjustable shelves, and will probably need to be shortened slightly so that they fit easily (only by a mm or so). From these 6 long boards, cut 18 pieces 718 mm (28 1/4") long. #3, 4 and 5: Rip all of these into boards 185 mm (7 1/4") wide. Trim to 2120 mm (83 7/16") long, and mark "outside right" and "outside left". Rip one board 185 mm (7 1/4") wide out of each left over piece. Mark these two pieces "inside left" and "inside right". Cut a rabbet to accommodate the 1/4" plywood for the back (~6 mm, but measure it) - make it about 10 mm (3/8") wide so fixing it to the back is easy. 3/4" pine shelving #1 and #2: rip one board 191 mm (7 1/2") wide out of each piece of shelving. These little features seem so subtle as to be almost pointless, but their very subtlety is why they work - they add to the appearance of quality with contributing any ostentation. The chamfer I added with a bevelling bit, stopped 50 mm (2") or so before the end of each piece of trim. I added the latter before cutting the shelves to length, though I didn't have the right router bit and so improvised.
The Ikea bookshelves I was trying to mimic have a few routed features: stopped chamfered edges on the front side trim, and a curvy front edge on the shelves.
Note that the 3/4" pine panel is 19 mm thick. Everything is in mm because building in feet and inches does my head in, but I will try to do the conversions.
#Blueprint hidden bookcase door plans plus#
However, there is nothing that this project calls for beyond the tools you need to build an ordinary bookshelf, so a circular saw with a good guide plus assembly tools is all you really need. While I don't have much in the way of specialist tools, I do have a decent collection of power tools in my garage, including a table saw, a miter saw, hand planer, router, drill etc. Total cost for the project was less than $500 (CAN). I built this with pocket screws and Miller dowels I like both of these construction techniques because they allow you to build things with wood glue (which is amazingly strong) but without lots of specialist tools and clamps (which I don't have). You will also need parts for whatever assembly method you use. I was really impressed with it - it all feels really solid and well thought out. You need the Murphy Door kit, which contains a neat collection of ruggedly built hardware. You need 2 sheets of 1/4" sanded plywood (~$25 each), and 6 panels of 3/4 x 15 1/4 x 96 laminated pine project board (~$20 each), and a few lengths of 2x4 construction lumber (or similar). I've attached the Sketchup file I used to design the bookcase. Fortunately, there was an elegant solution to this, that in some ways makes the bookcase stronger (the load bearing side is now directly above the pivot hardware). The trickiest thing about the new design was creating the illusion of depth on the sides that our existing furniture has, since the hardware needs to be mounted right against the outside edges of the boxes that make up the bifold door. The plans that come with the kit call for edge-banded plywood, but I made mine out of solid wood edge-glued panels instead: such shelving material is inexpensive, dimensionally stable and of the necessary thickness. The plan was simple: I would mimic the design and finish of our existing solid wood bookshelves as best I could, while adopting the hardware kit sold by the Murphy Door company, which is designed to support a door weighing up to 300 lbs. For maximum stealthiness, I was keen to make the bookcase blend in with the rest of our furniture.
0 kommentar(er)
